Foraying into one of the more congested nightly scenes we'd ever encounter in San Juan, one of our routine dinner rendezvous turned into a quest to find a restaurant that wasn't overly crowded. We found that Friday nights in the Condado region was slightly chaotic with drivers impatiently honking their horns at the slow traffic and pedestrians trying to figure out how to cross on to the other side of the street. My husband almost suggested having dinner at one of our hotel's restaurants, but even those were already crowded with people actually lining up outside the doors waiting on reservations. Instead, we headed out into the streets of Ashford Avenue to look for something that 1. Wasn't packed with tourists 2. Easy on the budget 3. Local, if possible.

Most, if not all, the eateries we passed were brimming with a combination of hungry tourists and locals, but we did spot a nondescript building with a simple sign that read "Cafe del Angel" on its front. It wasn't glitzy or had the ambiance that beckoned to a budding foodie, but I figured that if it served local Puerto Rican cuisine, it'd be good enough. Certainly, with my stomach talking to me through vicious growls, I didn't have a chance to be really choosy. We also had to consider food options for our slightly-picky 3 year old son whose palate didn't include anything too exotic. Cafe del Angel is just a 15 minute walk down from the Marriott and located right across the street from a number of upscale dining establishments, but it's a far cry from its more glitzier (and pricier) counterparts. The interior had a bar with cheesy tiki decorations and numerous tables filled every inch of available space in the small interior, making the eatery a claustrophobic's nightmare. Outdoor, there's a few patio seating available for customers who prefer to wine and dine while listening to the din of traffic, but we opted to sit inside. Our server, Mario, sat us by the window where I had a perfect view of the people who were ready to experience San Juan's night life.

We started our dinner with a fresh fish ceviche appetizer with some toasted, buttered bread rolls. The ceviche was absolutely mouthwatering with peppers, onions, carrots, and a lemon marinade that helps cook the fish. There's a little bit of sweet relish that takes the acidity off from the strong lemon taste, but altogether, the flavor was refreshing. Cafe del Angel has an enormous menu which includes numerous local Puerto Rican flavors. I wasn't sure what I would order, but Mario suggested that I try the Puerto Rican plate, in case I wanted to stick to basics. Originally, I wanted the shrimp mofongo, but after eating mofongo nearly every day during our stay there, I opted for something different.

The Puerto Rican plate included slices of pork tenderloin smothered with a thick peppered gravy, fried plantains, rice with chick peas, and pasteles---similar to tamales, but with a thinner consistency, and includes filling inside. As you can see from my snapshot, the Puerto Rican plate is enough to feed 2 hungry people; I couldn't even finish a third of my entree and had to bring the leftovers back to our hotel. The pork was tender and very flavorful along with the gravy and went well with the rice. The plantains were caramelized with brown sugar and the pasteles were somewhat bland, but adding some hot sauce made its taste infinitely better. Overall, the portions were definitely good for the price of dinner (nothing over $12 USD) and they have enough on their menu for even the pickiest of eaters. I would suggest that you order lightly for an appetizer since they do bring large plates to the tables. Either order a large appetizer or a small dinner or vice versa.

If you enjoy people-watching, then Cafe del Angel fits the bill; they have seats by the windows where you can look at the locals pass by or, even better, sit outside with them. Unlike restaurants in the U.S., they don't rush to get you in and out of their place, so feel free to sit back, relax, and enjoy your food. I didn't try any of their alcoholic beverages, but I was told that they're fairly inexpensive and great, compared to other bars. Cafe del Angel is also kid-friendly, as they've got a good number of things on their menu for children. Overall, I would recommend the restaurant for a combination of its prices and menu variety.

One of the unique places we visited in San Juan included the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, a relatively modern building housing some of the nation's best art work. The museum, which is also known as MAPR, contains works in a beautiful neoclassical building about 130,000 square feet with two adjacent wings for extra room. Built in the 1920's by architect William Shimmelphening, the museum's simple and clean design stands out amongst the urban atmosphere and is quite beautiful. Also, MAPR is easily reached from the Condado area by a 5-minute cab ride or a 10 - 15 min. walk to the Santurce area of the city.

The interior of MAPR is broken down into three wings or sections; one wing housed an exhibition from the 17th century, particularly of the artist Campeche, another featured the personal collection of Angel Ramos and Tina Hills, while another showcased works from more modern artists. Split into 4 levels, the museum also includes an interactive art section for the children, so that they can experience art firsthand by painting masks, drawing on a large house made out of chalkboard, and playing with a moving art maze. Like many art museums we've visited, photography (flash or no flash) is prohibited, so you're limited at what you can put on film. With security guards and cameras surreptitiously placed all throughout the gallery, it's a little hard to grab a shot of a favorite painting. However, despite the camera-ban, you are allowed to take pictures in the large, open hall in the east wing atrium (pictured above) which is dominated by a five story stained-glass window designed by Eric Tabales, a local San Juan artist. It's magnificent and quite dizzying to stare at the glass from the main floor, so it's best to move up to the 3rd floor to get a better glimpse. Most of the art work we looked through was a mix between modern and classic, but the different art media represented made it a unique viewing experience for our 3 year old, who enjoyed the 3D art gallery the most.

Behind the MAPR lies a 2.5 acre garden filled with over 365 natural ecological species of flora and fauna native to Puerto Rico. Stepping into what seems like a natural miniature rain forest in the middle of the city, the garden provides a lush canopy of trees to keep you shaded from the midday sun. My son loved the pond filled with a number of colorful Koi carps milling about nearby, thinking that he had treats to throw at them. Also, the garden is home to a few large and unique sculptures, some which are painted in a vibrant red color, to maintain contrast against the natural hues of the surrounding area.

If you plan to visit MAPR, allow at least an hour and a half to explore the galleries and experience the gardens in the back. When you're done, you can grab a bite to eat at their restaurant, Laurel, which serves an eclectic mix of Latin and Caribbean cuisine in an atmosphere decorated with vibrant and cozy colors. We didn't eat at Laurel, but I did have a chance to peek inside the restaurant and take a look at their menu and prices. Prices are a little on the steep side, with appetizers ranging between $12 - $19 USD and entrees from $25 USD and up. It's another reason why we decided to head elsewhere for lunch. Still, MAPR is highly recommended and admission will run adults $6 and children age 5 and over $3. Kids under 5 are free. Also, be aware that you won't be able to bring your bags or purses in the museum, so they'll have to be checked in at the main entrance. Cameras are okay, as long as you adhere to the rules and don't try to sneak in shots from their galleries. Pictures in the east wing atrium and gardens are allowed.

One of the places we ate for breakfast was Di Zucchero Restaurant & Lounge, an Italian eatery located directly across the Marriott hotel. Conveniently placed between the Starbucks and the Häagen-Dazs ice cream parlor, it's a perfect choice for breakfast if you're not in a hurry and  would like to enjoy a nice ambiance. Since we landed in Puerto Rico, getting up before 9 am was almost impossible, so finding places to eat breakfast around 10 was a challenge. Even at the hotel, the breakfast buffet ended at 10, so you were forced to eat out, which wasn't a problem due to the higher meal charges at the Marriott. We budgeted about $25 USD for breakfast each day for a family of 3, but most of the time we were under our limit.

What I immediately liked about Di Zucchero was its decor and interior. Outside on the patio, there were bright red chairs and a table facing the street, which made it a prime spot for people-watching. One end of the patio had large antiquated chaises big enough to seat 3 comfortably so that you and your friends could enjoy the meal al fresco. Unfortunately, it was in the upper 80's by the time we made it to Di Zucchero and, without outdoor umbrellas, I wasn't in the mood to eat in the heat and humidity. That was one thing I found odd about the restaurant---no umbrellas to shield patrons from the heat.

Overlooking the menu, there really wasn't a large selection of breakfast choices, but they had pancakes for our son, omelettes, crepes, and other healthy selections. Well, that and everything was made fancier by putting it in Italian. It was one of the few places we found that served salads for breakfast, but since I wasn't planning on going semi-vegetarian on our trip, I overlooked that section. Instead, I chose to have their muffins a la eggs Benedict-style with a small salad on the side. It was good, but not enough to fill my belly, so I helped my son finish his 2 blueberry pancakes. On the other hand, my husband had ordered an Italian-style omelette that came with two pieces of toasted bread. I wished I had ordered something a little more filling.

Di Zucchero is a restaurant and lounge, so at night it was common to hear music and see a crowd gathering outside or hanging out at the extra space on the second floor. In the mornings, the restaurant seems much calmer, lazier, and less chaotic that its nighttime alter ego. The waitstaff, although limited during the day, was a little on the slow side, and it took over 30 minutes for our breakfast to be served. Service, on the whole, in Puerto Rico is much more relaxed and slower than the U.S., so if you visit, make sure you have plenty of patience. Di Zucchero seemed slower than most, but don't mind the wait---the food is worth it. Also, expect slightly higher prices for breakfast at the restaurant and less choices for meals. I'm not sure what their lunch or dinner menu consists of, but breakfast tends to be more on the lighter and healthier side Also, you won't find heaping mounds of food here; Di Zucchero portions are much smaller, but the price doesn't reflect that. If you'd like a heavier breakfast, any of the local eateries, such as Danny's (previously reviewed), serves excellent food.