Danny's International
Just a few short blocks away from our hotel was Danny's International restaurant; it's a laid back, casual, and a local eatery serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner to patrons wandering around Condado. We actually passed Danny's a few times walking up and down the street while trying to figure out where we were going to eat, but one busy night steered us to this place. There's nothing fancy or snazzy about its exterior, compared to the other competitive restaurants, but its simple green awning and slightly raised outdoor deck makes it a welcome sight for those who prefer to people-watch. Well, people like me, I guess.
Because most of the other places we checked out were busy or crowded, we ended up at Danny's---something as a last resort---but, surprisingly, its food didn't disappoint. Not to be confused with the American Denny's restaurant, Danny's is somewhat similar, but also offers local Puerto Rican cuisine, mostly in the form of appetizers. Pictured above is Danny's Puerto Rican sampler; empanadas, alcapurrias, and fried plantains. Most of the appetizers featured American favorites, such as chicken wings and a variety of salads. I would, however, skip their Italian section as it doesn't compare to the other Italian restaurant across the street (which was jam packed the night we ate dinner), and instead try their pizzas. We ordered a large Puerto Rican pizza, which was big enough for the three of us and tasted like heaven. It didn't look like much, when the waitress first presented it, having just some mushrooms and pieces of chicken spread with cheese. However, what set my taste buds on fire was its crust and cheese. There was a hint of cinnamon and sugar mixed with the spices that made me dream of its taste later on that night. It was intoxicating and I will rarely rave about a pizza unless there's something unusual or unique about it. Danny's Puerto Rican pizza was a winner in my book.
Because Danny's is open from 7am - 1am, it makes it an ideal place for breakfast and late dinners, especially if other nearby restaurants are crowded. Most entrees run from $8 to $15, which is the norm for restaurants in the area, but their pizzas are worth it. Nothing really stood out in their menu, particularly with its large sandwich and Italian selections, but it's worth trying the few Puerto Rican food that they offer. Because we had breakfast at Danny's one morning, I do have to commend their breakfast menu and the huge portions that they serve. Breakfast is comparatively cheaper than dinner, of course, and you can get a full plate of pancakes, bacon, eggs, and toast for under $6. Compared to a breakfast platter at the Marriott for $15 a person, Danny's was a much better alternative and just a short distance away.
Condado Beach
Just steps from our hotel lies Condado Beach, a stretch of waves, surf, and sand overlooking the rough Atlantic waters. Because the Condado neighborhood in San Juan is an eclectic mixture of ritzy hotels, casinos, and choice condominiums, it's no surprise to find the area filled with tourists (such as myself) and local residents who own homes in the area. The crowd was comparatively young, at least compared to my husband and I, but I imagine that San Juan attracts young college students on a weekend getaway and newlyweds cavorting about during their honeymoon. There's also a handful of families with young children, so our son had a number of kids to play with on the beach as well as the hotel's pool.
If you do stay at a hotel that has access to the beach---take advantage of it. One day, we decided to spend our morning enjoying the beautiful warm weather and the beach, so we armed ourselves with some sunscreen, hats, and water. Since the Marriott has its own beach staff, they will set up your chair and umbrella at the location of your choice free of charge. They even have servers who come by to take your drink orders and will come back with a cool beverage to quench your thirst. While my son and husband walked along the length of the beach (and its waters), I just lounged about lazily underneath the canopy of my umbrella. Even though we were out on the beach around 10am, the rays are brutal. I spent most of my time watching the waves and the people enjoying them.
Since I brought my camera with me, I did manage to wander off into the edge of the water for a few shots of the waves and outcropping of rocks (pictured above), but the fear of tripping over something and dropping my camera made me hurry to go back underneath the relative safety of my umbrella. Condado Beach isn't really crowded, but on nice days like this, prime spots are quickly taken so most people tend to head out early to take them. I just wanted to make sure I grabbed some good shots with the camera before really kickin' back and enjoying the surroundings. Oh, and I do have to mention the eye-candy of gorgeous Latin hunks in the area---another great reason to take the camera to the beach!
San Juan's Finest
Pictured above are two of San Juan's finest from the police department. Safety was definitely a concern for us when considering our vacation, but as we got to know the city and our area a lot better, we found that there was always a police presence nearby. I can honestly say that I spotted a cop or two each day we went out, so there was never a fear about crime or trouble the entire time we were in San Juan. Still, most major cities contain less-than-desirable spots that tourists need to stay clear of, but people should always be aware of their surroundings at all times and steer clear of dangerous areas.
While chatting with these two police officers, I found out that most tourist areas, such as Old San Juan, and the nearby beaches tend to have a good number of police units out. The female officer told me that, although San Juan is typically safe for all visitors, there are still crimes that involve mugging, theft, and assault on non-locals which frequently occur at night. Also, the majority of the victims are women who have gone out by themselves or are alone at certain parts of the city. Basically, it all boils down to common sense; if you're going to go out in an unfamiliar city, make sure you do it with a friend or research the location of where you're going to. Even though San Juan has a pretty decent police force patrolling the area, they can't be everywhere at once. These two officers were pretty easygoing and helpful, so I was glad to be able to get their shots and talk with them a bit.
I also have to note that most of the police we saw in San Juan were incredibly fit specimens. The few we spotted in Old San Juan were exceptionally muscular and somewhat intimidating, but then again, I'm guessing they like to place the best looking ones where all the tourists gather. However, if I was a criminal, I certainly wouldn't want to be manhandled or tackled by one of them. Well, that depends on their looks...
Cafeteria Mallorca
Walking around in the humid San Juan weather is bound to make anyone hungry and thirsty, so one of the first things we did after sightseeing was to look for a place to eat. Our mentality in Puerto Rico was set on savoring the local fare, so we completely ignored restaurant chains and common fast food places (i.e., McDonalds, Subways, Burger King, etc.). Street vendors selling local food, such as bacalaitos (cod fish fritters), alcapurrias (fried green plantains with crab or beef), or empanadillas (turn overs filled with meat) were common, but we wanted to beat the heat and sit down inside a restaurant to eat. One of the locals we stopped to chat with recommended the Cafeteria Mallorca for local Puerto Rican cuisine and was kind enough to give us directions.
Located off the main thoroughfare and across the street from Plaza Salvador Brau, was the Cafe Mallorca; a little eatery frequented by a handful of locals and a few tourists like us. There's nothing fancy or outstanding within its interior, but one look at the place and you knew that you were in good hands when it came to Puerto Rican food. Most of the patrons were eating heavy meaty meals and sandwiches, so we figured we'd follow suit. Glancing at their menu, you were given a choice of lunch or breakfast items to choose from, depending on the time you arrived. We came in around 11:30, so I was surprised that they were still serving breakfast. Our waiter gladly handed us the lunch menu and gave us a few choices for local food. I ended up with the chicken mofongo (picture no. 2) and side salad. The mofongo didn't disappoint; it was stewed chicken drenched over a thick crust of crushed plantains, chicharrones, garlic, and bits of meat. The chicken stew contained shredded meat with tomatoes, beans, green peppers, and a mild salsa-spice sauce that was incredibly delicious. Being a true Asian, I wished I had ordered a side of rice to go along with it, but after a few bites of the mofongo, you'd want to rethink that. The mofongo is enough to keep your belly full for at least 4-5 hours. I think I finished 60% of it.
My husband ordered the carne guisada (beef stew) that also came with fried plantain bananas with a caramel glaze over them. His order also came with rice and red beans. Since I'm the official food taster, I sampled his dish and found that the beef was slow cooked and tender with the pieces falling apart in my mouth. I'm not sure how they cook their food at Cafe Mallorca, but I can just imagine that everything is braised or set in a pot for hours, because the meat is incredibly tender and flavorful. Like other local restaurants in Puerto Rico, we were served warm toasted bread while we waited for our meals and offered coffee and desserts afterward. Cafe Mallorca includes a bakery, but because we had stuffed ourselves silly with food, our bellies didn't have enough room for the sweets. I do regret not picking some up, even to bring back to our hotel room, but I promised that we'd eat back here on a future visit. Like me, my husband couldn't finish his food, so we sort of languished at our table waiting for the food to slowly digest before resuming our exploration of Old San Juan. By the time we finished, it was getting closer to 1pm, so the restaurant was beginning to get crowded.
In the end, I would highly recommend Cafe Mallorca for its excellent and authentic Puerto Rican cuisine, quick service, and prices. The food is relatively cheap, compared to other restaurants in the area, and they are fast. I mean, you're not going to be waiting for more than 10 minutes for your meal, but they also don't rush to give you the check once you're done. A quick nod to the waiter will set you on your way. My mofongo lunch just cost $8 USD while my husband's was around $9, so you can easily splurge on dessert or coffee afterward. After our meal, we decided to walk around Old San Juan a little bit more before heading back for an afternoon siesta. A heavy meal at Cafe Mallorca will easily put you to sleep.
Castillo de San Cristóbal
Sitting majestically along the outskirts of Old San Juan are the remnants of a beautiful Spanish fort known as Castillo de San Cristóbal, a reminder of Puerto Rico's Spanish roots. As one of the largest forts built in the Americas by Spain, San Cristóbal rises 150 feet above sea level and took nearly 20 years to build (1765 - 1785). Located in the northeast corner of Old San Juan, San Cristóbal is the first point of interest most tourists will visit, since it's conveniently located near the entrance. Also, there's a trolley stop located near the entrance for folks who want to explore the other famous fort, El Morro, which guards the northwest portion of the city, and don't want to walk. While El Morro fortress was known to guard enemy invasions by sea, San Cristóbal protected invasions by land.
San Cristóbal is clearly impressive with its myriad of levels that make the fort feel more like a Spanish castle rather than a military fortification. However, it's technically a castle because of the "castillo" portion of its name. Outside the main entrance of the fort, you can wander around in a large field for a photo-op inside of the many garitas, a sentry box in which guards were stationed to keep watch for enemies. Luckily, we didn't have to wait at all for a shot by one of the garitas. Supposedly, one of the garitas is haunted by the ghost of a soldier who had fallen into the rocky cliffs below. After reviewing my pictures of the sentry box (see above), I was disappointed to find that everything was...normal. If you're familiar with the show, Ghost Hunters International, you'll find an episode where the crew visits El Morro and San Cristóbal and capture some eerie unexplained events on camera. Fortunately, nothing too creepy happened on our visit, although the extensive tunnels leading to the dungeons below the fortress were somewhat daunting. Since my son wanted to roam inside one of the darker tunnels that housed a number of dungeons, my husband and I followed him, but the air started to feel uncomfortable and oppressive. I don't know it it's the heat or the narrowness of the pathway, but I didn't like the feeling underground and only made it a few yards underneath before heading back outside for some fresh air. It was too dark to take good pictures and I didn't have my tripod, so we didn't stay underground too long.
If you head above the fortress, on its ramparts, you'll find exhilarating views of both Old San Juan and the Atlantic Ocean. We were able to see a cruise ship come into a dock in Bahia de San Juan (San Juan Bay) as well as other spectacular sights in the city. If you walk around the area, you'll also find the barracks were the soldiers used to sleep (picture no. 2) and the chapel where they attended religious services. There are uniforms and weapons on display, but what I enjoyed most was looking at the buildings and learning about San Juan's military history. For those who like guided tours, you can catch one offered by English-speaking park staff who are more than happy to offer intriguing stories about the fort. Also, visiting the fort is inexpensive; adult tickets (16 yrs. and over) are only $3 and children 15 and under are FREE. Hours of the fort are from 9:00am to 6:00pm, so take your time to visit. I would allow between 1 to 2 hours to fully explore the fort and its surrounding areas. Also, make sure you wear comfortable clothing and shoes, since the fort sits on a steep hill and its building encompasses a maze of tunnels and pathways that are steep and difficult to climb in slippers or heels.